The 2000 Dodge Intrepid






I thought I would start a detail of what I am doing on this car.  This is the car my daughter drives primarily.  I purchased it for more money than I should have.  It runs and drives, but when the engine gets warm, it has a terrible knock at 2000 RPMs.  I plan on taking the bottom end of the engine apart, and replacing the rod bearings to hopefully eliminate the noise.  I may have to replace the crankshaft and bearings too, but will see, as the sound isn’t too bad yet, as some of these engines I have seen on youtube.

Here is a recording of the sound (Video leaves much to be desired) of the rod knock.

Here is a picture of the metal found in the oil pan.


I replaced all of the rod bearings, I found that 4 of the 6 were damaged.  Thanks previous owner….

I also replaced the oil pan gasket, and the oil pressure sensor/sending unit.  It does not leak oil any longer.  Will keep an eye on it, it appears oil was spraying out of the oil pressure sensor unit.

Here is a video mostly for the sound, of after I repaired the rod bearings.

10/27/2014  Well, a week later, and over 200 miles, still running strong, no issues.  Will keep you updated. if problems develop.


Okay, so the latest adventure with this is the alternator.  I was getting a battery light shortly after starting the car.  Tested the battery, tested O.K. 12.5 volts, as expected.   When the car was running the voltage slowly dropped, 12.0, 11.8, etc….  Took out the Alternator, as I suspected it had failed.  Brought the Alternator to Autozone, and had it tested.  The alternator tested O.K.  Now what? I thought.

Well, I took the “good” alternator back home, and continued my troubleshooting.  Found that the wires that plug in, the green and orange wires, looked like they had been pinched pretty good at some point, so I thought maybe the connector, and wires were bad.  I was able to find a replacement for that pigtail in the junkyard, bought it, soldered it into place on my Intrepid.  Same battery light result….

With the engine running, I measured voltage at the alternator itself, 11.5, and dropping….  Bad alternator I thought, so I took it to a different Autozone, tested O.K. there too….  Brought it home, really cleaned all the connectors, made a new ground connection to the engine block, double/triple checked ground connection to the PCM.  Still not charging.

With the engine running, I pressed very hard sideways against the wire connector plug.  When I did, the engine lugged down, like the alternator kicked in.  I did it again, measuring voltage, and when I pressed super hard, like hard enough that my thumb now feels bruised, the voltage kicked up to 13.6 volts!  I took the alternator off, took it into the store, and purchased a new one.  The new one works flawlessly!  Wish I would have followed my gut to begin with, but I didn’t want to spend $100 on something I didn’t need.  Petunia is running again!  “Petunia” is what my daughter named her.

Still knock free in the engine compartment!


September 10th 2015

Petunia sprung a fuel leak in the engine compartment.  The leak was coming from the hose going into the fuel rail, it was more a piece of plastic, than a hose.  The Dodge recommended fix was to replace the entire hose/pipe assembly from the gas tank up to the engine compartment.  That would be expensive.  Instead, what I did is cut the plastic portion out, and replace it with fuel injector hose, with a 3/8″ Inner Diameter, that fit right over the existing plastic pipe that was molded to the metal pipe.  No more leak, engine still running knock free.

One Comment

  1. Wormanator..... LOL

    knocking noise, rod… metal in pan bearings….not good

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